Beginner’s Cross Body Hip Bag Tutorial

While looking For a project to use my “cute ugly” fabric on, I decided I not only wanted but needed a shoulder bag for running in and out with my kids. I currently tote a big ole back pack full of everything I could possible need to survive a nuclear attack.

Problem was, I couldn’t find anything but pdf patterns, usually at a steep price also. My printer is currently on deaths door which means pdf is out of the question. So I looked at a few pictures and decided to wing it. I have outlines every detail and I assure you this is a beginner project! I am a beginner myself.

Cross-carry bag

You need: 1/2 yard Main Fabric

1/2 yard lining/complementing fabric

1/3 yard fusible interfacing

2 med-large metal rings

2 small metal rings (optional for adjustable strap)

THATS ONE YARD OF FABRIC!!! Hells yeah!

No pattern needed, just the following square and rectangle cuts:

Main Fabric

(2) 10″x 12″

(2) 12″x 3.5″

(2) 3.5″x 8″

(1) 10″x 10″

(1) 10″x 6.5″

(1) 10″x 3.5″

Lining Fabric

(2) 10″x 12″

(2) 12″x 3.5″

(2) 3.5″x 8″

(1) 10″x 10″

(1) 10″x 8.5″

(1) 10″ x 3.5″

Interfacing

(2) 10″x 12″

(1) 10″x 10″

I use old newspapers to draw and cut my squares and rectangles to use as patterns, much easier than retracing every shape.

Keep ALL scraps!!!

Should look something like this.

Satchel Tutorial

Firstly attach your fusible interfacing to the 10″x 10″ and both 12″x 10″ pieces of lining fabric

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 Round the corners of both your 10″x 10″ squares like so…

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You can do this by putting them together then folding in half. If you are not confident in your free cut, trace a cup or lid to get a perfect rounded guide line.

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Now, place both pieces right sides together. Sew along both sides and around curved ends, leaving the straight side opposite your curved edged open. snip notches into the curve of the fabric to prevent bunching. Be careful not to cut your seam.

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Flip right side out, press, and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge. Should look similar this when finished. Set aside for now.

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Using both the 10″x 6.5″ main fabric and the 10″x 8.5″ lining fabric, fold one of the longest edges down 1/4″ and press. Turn again 1/4″ and press again creating a concealed edge. Sew along this edge to create the finished edge of your pockets.

(I used pockets 2″ shorter than what is suggested here, Mine were a tad more shallow than I had hoped for originally)

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Now stack your pockets onto you front right side of your panel (10″x 12″), the way you wish for them to be seen from the outside, hemmed sides on top. (Note: your pockets should look slightly taller. I added 2″ to this tutorial)

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Using your two 12″x 3.5″ Lining fabrics, place and pin them right sides together onto both sides of your front panel.

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Sew along the 12″ edges straight down, being sure to sew over the pocket edges also. Open and press open seam.

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using your 10″x 3.5″ Lining piece, place and pin it right sides together across the bottom front panel, Just like the two pieces before. Sew across, being sure to sew through the bottom of the pockets also. Open and press seam.

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Here it gets tricky. You are going to sew together the ends of the lining pieces to form a corner. I wish there were a better way to show you but really, just line them up, straight raw edge to straight raw edge.

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When both are done should look something like…

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Now, grab all your pins. Use the remaining 12″ x10″ main fabric piece and begin to pin it to all the lining fabric sides on the back (right sides together), creating a bag. Start at bottom corners for best results.

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Sew, press, and flip right side out. To save you time and frustration later, press the top raw edges down about 1/2″, do not sew them yet though.

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Repeat all these step (without pockets) to create your lining. When finished you should have 2 complimenting bag shapes. Fold and press raw edge of lining bag 1/2″ also. Do not sew.

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Locate your flap piece with the rounded corners. Now pin your flap to the back inside of your outer shell about 1/2″. Raw edge should be folded down so from the outside there will be no raw edge visible. Sew.

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Flip your lining bag inside out and insert into outer bag, so you have right sides visible looking in and out, set aside.

Using your 3.”x 8″ pieces, lay complimenting fabrics right sides together. Stitch completely down both long sides, flip right side out and press. Here is one sewn and one flipped right side out. You should have 2 when complete. These will be your hooks for your metal rings.

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loop each piece around one of your metal rings. Sandwich the ends in between the lining and outer shell of your bag along your 3″ sides, inserting ends at least 1″-2″ into the seam. Pin

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Continue pinning around the entire mouth of bag. With raw edges folded under. Sew a 1/4″ seam around the entire top. Be sure to sew a few extra stitches on both sides with the metal rings. They will be weight bearing seams so reinforce them.

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When finished should look something like…

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Now for straps. I did not manage to get pictures but there are several way to do this. I cut all my remaining scraps into 3″ strips. I then sewed them all together in a continuous strip, being sure to reinforce each seam with a zig-zag stitch. After I had one long strip of fabric (1.5 yards) I folded my strip in half, right sides together, and sewed straight down.

Then using a safety pin, fed one end through the looong tube pulling it right side out. Press.

You could also use one continuous strip of fabric if you have it, or use nylon strapping.

To attach to your metal rings you have 2 options. One being the most simple, by choosing a set strap length and sewing it directly around the loop on both sides. Be sure to fold your raw edge under.

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To make an adjustable strap, FIRST attach one end of the strap to your 2 smaller rings

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Then loop your raw end thru one big ring and into the smaller rings much like a belt. Pull all the way to the opposite larger ring and sew like in first drawing above. you should have double strap on one side like so…

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Attached to larger rings like so…

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Once That’s done, ENJOY YOUR BAG!

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Note: You can add snaps or velcro. I didn’t have any handy for this project but I prefer the flip and grab. My current bag has a magnetic snap and I want to chunk it every time I try to snap it while wrestling kids though a parking lot.. Like looking for a contact in a blizzard. Will probably go with velcro if I make another though.

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Copper Top Penny Coffee Table DIY

This table…(shakes head) … this table, it belonged to my husband’s Nana which translates into, “We are never getting rid of it” I’ve had tried numerous time to get a new coffee table and have been met with a “No” from Jerry. It was a regular brown coffee table when we got together. I thought it had met it’s demise a few years back when my husband and a friend crashed into it. Wrong!, Jerry screwed it right back together. So, since we can’t let it go, at least we can make it more unique.

coffeetable

All you need for this project is:

a Surface (coffee table in this case)

Elmer’s Pro bond advanced or equivalent, must bond metal to wood

Martha Stewart Copper Metallic Glaze or equivalent, an acrylic copper will work as well.

Black spray paint your choice of gloss or flat

Polyurethane clear gloss

Pennies, pennies, pennies!!! 

Just to go ahead and warn you, you are going to need more pennies than you think. I chose this project because I assumed “Oh! pennies! how cheap this will be!” After my first visit to the bank for $5 in pennies I discovered I was wrong. In all, I estimate $15 in pennies. Not my cup of tea AT ALL!!!

This project in all including paint, pennies, and polyurethane I estimate at around $25. Still cheaper than a new table. I was given the Martha Stewart paint by my sister so FREE! Already had the Elmer’s on hand as well.

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This is what we started with. I painted the table a sherbet orange a year or so ago. This was after a slight sanding.

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Step 1: Paint entire piece your base color; I chose black. Let dry

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Step 2: using you glaze or equivalent, cover whatever surface your placing your pennies. This will make it look like a more cohesive piece. The gaps in between will not stand out as much. Also if your working with an odd shape like I was, this will make your edges look much more uniform.

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I used an old blush brush to make swirly patterns. Almost left it like this; was very pretty. I just wanted some texture in my life though, so I continued.

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Step 3: using the Elmer’s advanced bond start placing your pennies in a stagger pattern for maximum coverage. If you are working with a odd shape, like this table, it will be your call on how far to let pennies overhang. Some rows will line up perfectly with the edge while others will have a gap or leave your penny hanging over. Totally up to you what you do with it. This is the reason I applied the copper. The copper base makes these edge gaps less noticeable.

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My completely filled table. 15 stinking dollars later! Don’t fret, Gluing them down is much quicker than you think, even a little fun.

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Step 4: You want to apply this for numerous reasons. It will protect the pennies from turning colors, avoid them coming off the table from wear, and seal the cracks for easy cleaning. To apply, literally pour the contents of the can into the center of the table. Using a wide paint brush or sponge, work the coat outward to the edges. You may need more or less to completely fill the cracks for a smooth surface area. For a very smooth finish, buy 2 cans. Repeat this step again after table had completely dried with second can of polyurethane.

This will take anywhere from 24-48 hours to dry. I left mine outside for the first 36 hours. The nearly drowning humidity kept it from drying completely so I had to confine it to a bedroom away from toddler hands overnight to finish the drying process. Seriously though, the humidity here is so bad you almost need scuba gear to breathe in the yard.

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Step 5: Enjoy table! Mine will get an extra coat of polyurethane I’m sure eventually. I LOVE the wet look it gives it!

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Isn’t it lovely?

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Paxton saw the camera and waned to “cheese” for Mama.

BONUS!!!

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Add pennies in any pattern to a cheap piece of dollar store glass. I think they sell them for candle stands. Got this one for $0.25. It’s a new coaster for my fancy table.

Enjoy!

No-Sew Bikini!!! Busty Girls can Wear too!

So, the only no-sew bikinis I can find are strapless tube top type. Let’s be honest, only the extremely flat chested can pull that one off. Therefore, I, accidentally, found a way to make one for big girls. This can be worn by small, average, and busty ladies and can be altered several different ways. I will show you 2 here. I even included a bottoms tutorial!

Here’s 2 of the outcomes to this tutorial.

PicMonkey Collage

The Fringe is optional as is the collar. Collar kinda of adds that retro flair tho, I believe. Now, for the how-to!

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Supplies: 2 L or XL T-shirts, 2 Hair ties or rubber bands (not necessary for a smaller bust), 1 pair of scissors.

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Step 1 (TOP): Cut arms, neck, bottom hem, and down side. you can’t see here but I cut from the arm pit down to the hem. (be sure to keep scraps)

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 Move Scraps. Shirt should now look like this when opened up.

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Step 2 (TOP): These will be your tie straps for your neck and waist so need to be no more than 2 inches thick. If they are too thick cut all the way across your rectangle shaped fabric to thin them out.

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Step 3 (TOP): Specify your top from your bottom. Doesn’t matter which way you do it just specify them. Cut straps center with hole in center and tie together. Do not knot as you will need to be able to untie and retie when taking on and off.

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Step 4 (TOP): Starting from bottom corner cut up toward neck, leaving about 6 inches from center top. Taking out a big triangle.  (sorry for blurry photo upload)

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Place arms through large center hole with the TOP behind your neck and the BOTTOM under your arms behind you back. It should look similar to picture above

(((TIP: If you have any natural saggage in your twins put on a bra for this next part. This works with any swimsuit. Put on a bra first then swimsuit. Then remove bra from underneath swimsuit to avoid that crazy “cant get your girls right” experience.)))

 .

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Step 5 (TOP) (Less busty): Roll fabric on neckline under and twist tightly.

If you are smaller busted this can be your final step. After twisting both sides tie them and it should look like photo below (minus the black bra)

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Without Collar

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With Collar.

To get collar simply unroll neckline fabric AFTER rolling and tying. Always roll completely under when tying to ensure maximum coverage.

Finished top for smaller bust. For larger bust continue to Step 5 (busty) below.

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Step 5 (TOP) (Busty): Twist neckline under and twist bottom. Secure with elastic to ensure the movement and pressure from those bad boys doesn’t untwist the fabric and you come spilling out in a tidal wave of pure boob awesomeness.

tiwfront

Step 7 (TOP) (Busty): Now here it gets a little tricky. Because of the elastic ties, simply tying the ends together will cause it to look bulky. So here I took a piece of my scrap fabric, ran each end thru the elastic ties, then tied together in a very tight knotted bow…. Oh, and you can now release the Cracken….. (remove bra)

To get the fringe look just cut the excess fabric into strips. Pull each strip. The T-shirt material will roll up on itself when stretched.

You can now unroll upper inner neck to make the collared look if you choose to or leave them tucked.

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For this type of finish. Tie elastics together with scrap fabric, wrap fabric around center, tuck ends underneath boob. This will not only hide the ends completely but will give your girls a little boost from underneath. The gathers in the fabric will totally camouflage the tucked ends also.

(((TIP: If you plan to swim or get wet in this top I suggest adding an extra layer of protection. Such as, Nipple Pasties, Bra liner out of an old bra or swimsuit liner from another swimsuit. You know, they put them in those little pockets on the back of your swimsuit tit and they always get twisted in the washer. This top has that heavy vinyl type printing on it so is good on its on. apply this tip to a plain or thin T-shirt)))

VOILA!

NOW BIKINI BOTTOMS!

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Step 1 (BOTTOMS): Take your second shirt. cut completely up sides, across hem, and cut off neckline. Leaving 2 big pieces of square fabric.

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Step 2 (BOTTOMS): Split into 2 separate squares put one to the side. If you can not free hand the hourglass crotch shape, I suggest taking a pair of old panties (that word is so weird to me), cut the sides of said panties and lay out like shown. ((Yes, those are my fancy Granny Panties))  Outline just the hourglass inner thigh shape. Don’t worry about top and sides where you cut.

(((TIP: Use the extra square of fabric to make a slightly smaller version of these bottom, using same directions. If your planning to actually swim in swimsuit you’ll want double the layer to keep your camel toe under wraps. You don’t want your camel toe to become a moose knuckle. Wear the smaller version beneath version we are making here by tying together on sides… you’ll see what I mean…. Keep reading.)))

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Step 3 (BOTTOMS): Cut out hourglass shape but extend all the way to edge of fabric. Front and back ‘waist’ band (far left and far right) should be about 3″ wide. If you got a lot of excess cut completely across. You can see where I trimmed both front and back of mine.

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Step 4 (BOTTOMS): Cut split in both sides of ‘FRONT’. Cut a hole into both sides of ‘BACK’. Be sure to do this to BOTH sides.

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Step 5 (BOTTOMS): Here it gets hard. Your going to feel like you putting on a grownup diaper. Easiest way to do this is just to sit on it… yeah yeah yeah, I know. That’s what she said… Sit on bottoms diaper style. Bring your slitted front (this just keeps getting dirtier).. bring slitted front pieces thru hole from back piece. Loop around hole and tie. This photo doesn’t really show you exactly how, but the point is to use the hole to tie the slit pieced together so your bottoms stay on! Do this on each side and SHOULD look as follows.bottoms

If your bottoms are too loose this is an easy fix. On the pieces where you cut a ‘hole’ and a ‘split’ shorten them. the shorter you make these pieces the smaller around your suit will be.

FINAL PRODUCT!!!!

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Any questions or suggestions feel free to comment!

Yes, I have swam in T-shirt swimsuit. Wet fabric won’t rip, your safe

Yes, those are my real boobs. Before you get mad… don’t be, because I have the ass of a 2nd grader. 😦