DIY Phone Case (Under $3)


Step 1. Purchase a clear case to fit your phone model. They are available for $2 all over Can’t beat that. One case will work for multiple designs though, so you only need one.


Step 2. Find an image you like and print. Here, you can use trial and error to print the size you like or to save ink I opened the image I wanted in adobe reader as a pdf. There you can see the image in the exact size on screen as it will print on paper. I held my clear case to the screen until the size was what I wanted.


Step 3: Lay case over the image, as you want it to look on the phone and trace around it. Cut the image out by cutting ever so slightly INSIDE the trace line.

Step 4: Carefully put image into case. You may have to cut away very small edges at a time to adjust to case. You do want some of the paper to fold over the phone edge though so precision isn’t a big deal. Once on, use a box cutter or x-acto knife to cut out the camera slot. (Do this with the paper side up. It is much easier that way)

Step 5: Put it on your phone! Voila! You can change it as often as you want. Use photos of family, let your kids draw on pre-cut phone templates, use a pic from a magazine, anything paper!


(((I made two thus the difference in finished product and tutorial pics. I decided I wanted more Belle and more colors after I finished the first one.)))

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Beginner’s Cross Body Hip Bag Tutorial

While looking For a project to use my “cute ugly” fabric on, I decided I not only wanted but needed a shoulder bag for running in and out with my kids. I currently tote a big ole back pack full of everything I could possible need to survive a nuclear attack.

Problem was, I couldn’t find anything but pdf patterns, usually at a steep price also. My printer is currently on deaths door which means pdf is out of the question. So I looked at a few pictures and decided to wing it. I have outlines every detail and I assure you this is a beginner project! I am a beginner myself.

Cross-carry bag

You need: 1/2 yard Main Fabric

1/2 yard lining/complementing fabric

1/3 yard fusible interfacing

2 med-large metal rings

2 small metal rings (optional for adjustable strap)


No pattern needed, just the following square and rectangle cuts:

Main Fabric

(2) 10″x 12″

(2) 12″x 3.5″

(2) 3.5″x 8″

(1) 10″x 10″

(1) 10″x 6.5″

(1) 10″x 3.5″

Lining Fabric

(2) 10″x 12″

(2) 12″x 3.5″

(2) 3.5″x 8″

(1) 10″x 10″

(1) 10″x 8.5″

(1) 10″ x 3.5″


(2) 10″x 12″

(1) 10″x 10″

I use old newspapers to draw and cut my squares and rectangles to use as patterns, much easier than retracing every shape.

Keep ALL scraps!!!

Should look something like this.

Satchel Tutorial

Firstly attach your fusible interfacing to the 10″x 10″ and both 12″x 10″ pieces of lining fabric


 Round the corners of both your 10″x 10″ squares like so…


You can do this by putting them together then folding in half. If you are not confident in your free cut, trace a cup or lid to get a perfect rounded guide line.


Now, place both pieces right sides together. Sew along both sides and around curved ends, leaving the straight side opposite your curved edged open. snip notches into the curve of the fabric to prevent bunching. Be careful not to cut your seam.


Flip right side out, press, and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge. Should look similar this when finished. Set aside for now.



Using both the 10″x 6.5″ main fabric and the 10″x 8.5″ lining fabric, fold one of the longest edges down 1/4″ and press. Turn again 1/4″ and press again creating a concealed edge. Sew along this edge to create the finished edge of your pockets.

(I used pockets 2″ shorter than what is suggested here, Mine were a tad more shallow than I had hoped for originally)


Now stack your pockets onto you front right side of your panel (10″x 12″), the way you wish for them to be seen from the outside, hemmed sides on top. (Note: your pockets should look slightly taller. I added 2″ to this tutorial)


Using your two 12″x 3.5″ Lining fabrics, place and pin them right sides together onto both sides of your front panel.


Sew along the 12″ edges straight down, being sure to sew over the pocket edges also. Open and press open seam.


using your 10″x 3.5″ Lining piece, place and pin it right sides together across the bottom front panel, Just like the two pieces before. Sew across, being sure to sew through the bottom of the pockets also. Open and press seam.


Here it gets tricky. You are going to sew together the ends of the lining pieces to form a corner. I wish there were a better way to show you but really, just line them up, straight raw edge to straight raw edge.



When both are done should look something like…


Now, grab all your pins. Use the remaining 12″ x10″ main fabric piece and begin to pin it to all the lining fabric sides on the back (right sides together), creating a bag. Start at bottom corners for best results.


Sew, press, and flip right side out. To save you time and frustration later, press the top raw edges down about 1/2″, do not sew them yet though.



Repeat all these step (without pockets) to create your lining. When finished you should have 2 complimenting bag shapes. Fold and press raw edge of lining bag 1/2″ also. Do not sew.


Locate your flap piece with the rounded corners. Now pin your flap to the back inside of your outer shell about 1/2″. Raw edge should be folded down so from the outside there will be no raw edge visible. Sew.


Flip your lining bag inside out and insert into outer bag, so you have right sides visible looking in and out, set aside.

Using your 3.”x 8″ pieces, lay complimenting fabrics right sides together. Stitch completely down both long sides, flip right side out and press. Here is one sewn and one flipped right side out. You should have 2 when complete. These will be your hooks for your metal rings.


loop each piece around one of your metal rings. Sandwich the ends in between the lining and outer shell of your bag along your 3″ sides, inserting ends at least 1″-2″ into the seam. Pin


Continue pinning around the entire mouth of bag. With raw edges folded under. Sew a 1/4″ seam around the entire top. Be sure to sew a few extra stitches on both sides with the metal rings. They will be weight bearing seams so reinforce them.


When finished should look something like…


Now for straps. I did not manage to get pictures but there are several way to do this. I cut all my remaining scraps into 3″ strips. I then sewed them all together in a continuous strip, being sure to reinforce each seam with a zig-zag stitch. After I had one long strip of fabric (1.5 yards) I folded my strip in half, right sides together, and sewed straight down.

Then using a safety pin, fed one end through the looong tube pulling it right side out. Press.

You could also use one continuous strip of fabric if you have it, or use nylon strapping.

To attach to your metal rings you have 2 options. One being the most simple, by choosing a set strap length and sewing it directly around the loop on both sides. Be sure to fold your raw edge under.


To make an adjustable strap, FIRST attach one end of the strap to your 2 smaller rings


Then loop your raw end thru one big ring and into the smaller rings much like a belt. Pull all the way to the opposite larger ring and sew like in first drawing above. you should have double strap on one side like so…


Attached to larger rings like so…


Once That’s done, ENJOY YOUR BAG!


Note: You can add snaps or velcro. I didn’t have any handy for this project but I prefer the flip and grab. My current bag has a magnetic snap and I want to chunk it every time I try to snap it while wrestling kids though a parking lot.. Like looking for a contact in a blizzard. Will probably go with velcro if I make another though.

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Easier, Cheaper, Quicker Photo to Canvas Transfer

I have seen lots and lots and lots of photo to canvas transfers. The majority of these transfers call for a gel medium which runs about $13…. NOPE! It also calls for 12 hours of drying. “Ain’t nobody got time for dat”

So here is my version that was muuuch cheaper! It also makes creating a more vivid picture easier without as much peeling and tearing.


Printed image from laser jet printer

Canvas to fit printed image

White acrylic paint

Modge Podge

Olive or vegetable oil.

Blow Dryer (optional)


To print $0.10

Paint $0.30

Modge Podge $0.10

Vegetable oil $0.05

Canvas $1.00 (9 pack for $9)

Total: $1.55 per canvas photo

Now here is how you do it!


Step 1: Print you image. Be sure to flip it the opposite of how you want it to look as you will be transferring it face down. Paint your entire canvas with one good coat of white acrylic paint. Be sure to paint the entire surface. Allow to dry. You can use a blow dryer to speed up this process or it will dry on it’s own within 15-30 minutes depending on how thick the paint is.


Step 2: Cover entire surface in modge podge.


Step 3: Place photo face down onto canvas and smooth out all bubbles. Try to create as little wrinkles and bubbles as possible. Allow to dry. This can be sped up with a blow dryer also. Without a dryer allow 20-40 minutes to dry.

(This is a great project to work on while cleaning the house or preparing supper)


Step 4: Spray the now dried paper with water. This works best if you work in sections instead of soaking the entire canvas. I used a spritz bottle with water. You can also use a wet sponge or wet rag….

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…Begin rubbing with your finger. layers of paper will start to peel away. Be very careful in this process. Peel one layer at a time away. It will look vivid when wet but as the water dries it will look more white again. I will show you how to fix that.

The more layers you remove the more vivid the photo becomes but on the same hand the more layers you remove the more apt it is to tear and leave a hole in the photo. So one or 2 layers is plenty! Don’t over do your rubbing!


Once completely peeled it will still have a hazy white over it, let it dry, only takes a few minutes or use the blow dryer. Then use a dry rag or paint brush to brush off loose pieces of paper lint.


Step 5: Grab that vegetable or olive oil….


… pour onto canvas and use a soft cloth or brush to spread the oil over the canvas.


the oil will soak into the paper and make the colors stand out much like the water did. Only the oil will not dry up! Allow the oil about 1-2 minutes to saturate the thin layer of paper.


Step 6: After oil has had a couple minutes to saturate go over the entire canvas with modge podge. The modge podge will mix with the oil but don’t worry. It will still dry and the oil will still stay within the paper/canvas.

You can use a paint brush to create paint strokes in the modge podge for a faux painting if you wish.

Then allow 30-40 minutes to dry. The surface my still have a slight greasy feeling after it dries but I have had my others on the walls for a few months and they are completely dry and touchable.

I have not hung This one yet but here is his sisters photo’s. A couple of them transferred so flawlessly I had to purposely rip pieces away for the raw look I was going for.


I painted the edges of the canvases after transferring but that is a personal choice. Completely optional.

So there you have a easier way to create these beautiful pieces of art!


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Painted Shoes

I have not given up on my blog. I have simply been overwhelmed with shoes!!! On top of that my son cracked my laptop screen and I have another virus on my computer. Oh the bum luck!

Though I would just drop by and let everyone see what has been keeping me away!




Boy Shoes

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Dallas Cowboys

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Fairy Godmother (for my Fairy Godmother)


These aren’t finishes, I am currently working on these while waiting on shoes to be delivered to me.

Sorry to keep it short, I have lots of projects I have been working on so hopefully I will have some tutorials up soon!

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Bathroom Redo for Under $15

This is a project I did a few weeks back but just haven’ t gotten around to posting.

This is not so much a tutorial as it is “What I did to spruce up our small guest bathroom.”

Our guest bathroom was pretty just, blah. Our entire house is painted a very boring shade of tan. Fortunately the landlord left a bucket of the paint here with us. Therefore, I have a little bit of play that I can cover later. Even if you can’t paint your walls this same things can be done using poster board or white contact paper.

First things first, pick up some bright acrylic paints!


Very simple shapes can create a very dramatic look. If you are not confident in you free hand, make a stencil using poster board or card board. Stencil out a circle, then any petal shape you decide to use.  Paint whatever colors you choose and voila! That simple.

Next, embrace the dollar store crafts. I would like to credit someone for this next part, but truth is, there are so many tutorials for these it is ridiculous. Even easier to make than to find.


I got 8 packs of tissue paper in various colors for $1 a piece. Paid another $1 for a pack of pipe cleaners. Still had enough paper for 2 other flowers but didn’t have enough room to hang them.

Tutorial can be found at the following link: Tissue Paper Pompom

This same tutorial can be used to make tissue paper balls also. Just attach 2 of these flowers back to back to create a pompom ball effect and hang from ceiling.

If you are hanging these in a bathroom, like I did, consider humidity. The best way to avoid drooping is spray starch. I sprayed mine after they were hung, I WOULD NOT suggest it. I had to constantly fluff them as they dried. 

Instead spray your tissue paper with starch BEFORE starting and allow to dry completely as starch will make it damp at first.

Hang them on the wall using small nails or double stick heavy duty tape. I had a little extra space so I painted “Hello Beautiful” on the wall, as the mirror is directly left of it all.

Finding a bright colored shower curtain should be a breeze. I got mine from Dollar General and they literally had a crap load of bright colors to choose from.

So that’s how I spruced up my guest bath for under $15. I apologize in the poor photo quality. My husband says he is buying me a camera. We will see.

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Copper Top Penny Coffee Table DIY

This table…(shakes head) … this table, it belonged to my husband’s Nana which translates into, “We are never getting rid of it” I’ve had tried numerous time to get a new coffee table and have been met with a “No” from Jerry. It was a regular brown coffee table when we got together. I thought it had met it’s demise a few years back when my husband and a friend crashed into it. Wrong!, Jerry screwed it right back together. So, since we can’t let it go, at least we can make it more unique.


All you need for this project is:

a Surface (coffee table in this case)

Elmer’s Pro bond advanced or equivalent, must bond metal to wood

Martha Stewart Copper Metallic Glaze or equivalent, an acrylic copper will work as well.

Black spray paint your choice of gloss or flat

Polyurethane clear gloss

Pennies, pennies, pennies!!! 

Just to go ahead and warn you, you are going to need more pennies than you think. I chose this project because I assumed “Oh! pennies! how cheap this will be!” After my first visit to the bank for $5 in pennies I discovered I was wrong. In all, I estimate $15 in pennies. Not my cup of tea AT ALL!!!

This project in all including paint, pennies, and polyurethane I estimate at around $25. Still cheaper than a new table. I was given the Martha Stewart paint by my sister so FREE! Already had the Elmer’s on hand as well.

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This is what we started with. I painted the table a sherbet orange a year or so ago. This was after a slight sanding.


Step 1: Paint entire piece your base color; I chose black. Let dry


Step 2: using you glaze or equivalent, cover whatever surface your placing your pennies. This will make it look like a more cohesive piece. The gaps in between will not stand out as much. Also if your working with an odd shape like I was, this will make your edges look much more uniform.

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I used an old blush brush to make swirly patterns. Almost left it like this; was very pretty. I just wanted some texture in my life though, so I continued.


Step 3: using the Elmer’s advanced bond start placing your pennies in a stagger pattern for maximum coverage. If you are working with a odd shape, like this table, it will be your call on how far to let pennies overhang. Some rows will line up perfectly with the edge while others will have a gap or leave your penny hanging over. Totally up to you what you do with it. This is the reason I applied the copper. The copper base makes these edge gaps less noticeable.


My completely filled table. 15 stinking dollars later! Don’t fret, Gluing them down is much quicker than you think, even a little fun.


Step 4: You want to apply this for numerous reasons. It will protect the pennies from turning colors, avoid them coming off the table from wear, and seal the cracks for easy cleaning. To apply, literally pour the contents of the can into the center of the table. Using a wide paint brush or sponge, work the coat outward to the edges. You may need more or less to completely fill the cracks for a smooth surface area. For a very smooth finish, buy 2 cans. Repeat this step again after table had completely dried with second can of polyurethane.

This will take anywhere from 24-48 hours to dry. I left mine outside for the first 36 hours. The nearly drowning humidity kept it from drying completely so I had to confine it to a bedroom away from toddler hands overnight to finish the drying process. Seriously though, the humidity here is so bad you almost need scuba gear to breathe in the yard.


Step 5: Enjoy table! Mine will get an extra coat of polyurethane I’m sure eventually. I LOVE the wet look it gives it!


Isn’t it lovely?


Paxton saw the camera and waned to “cheese” for Mama.



Add pennies in any pattern to a cheap piece of dollar store glass. I think they sell them for candle stands. Got this one for $0.25. It’s a new coaster for my fancy table.


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Digging through the Painting Archives

My household had a lot on it’s plate which means a little less time and resources to start new projects. Since we are about to go head first into some big changes in our house, I decided to make today a lazy day. Lazy day included going through tons of old pictures. I found a lot of paintings from a few years back and thought I would share them with y’all.

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When these where done, smartphones were reserved for the elite, therefore not very highly quality photos. These are watercolor and acrylic on watercolor paper.

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acrylic on canvas. Purely done out of boredom.

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Acrylic and wall putty on canvas. For a Relay for Life auction in 2010


watercolor on watercolor paper. A gift to my Granny.


Acrylic and watercolor on canvas. LSU!!!

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Acrylic on canvas. For my brother’s Browning loving maw-in-law

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watercolor and acrylic on canvas.  A gift to a friend during her pregnancy.

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Large Camp sign. Painted for auction to benefit my Mamaw back in 2010

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Acrylic and wall putty on canvas. These pieces are so quick and easy, and when framed make a great piece.

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Acrylic on glass. I LOVE doing windows! Cant wait for the holidays to roll around so I can do my windows here!

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Acrylic on heavy packing paper. These where in my son’s nursery when he was an infant. It was a woodland critter room.


acrylic on drywall. A family tree mural (as seen on pinterest). Commissioned for a precious lady who has since made it even more beautiful with family photos.

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Acrylic and marker on heavy packing paper. This thing is like 8 ft long. It hung on our dining room wall 2 houses ago. Now it is stuck in the attic as it doesn’t fit or match anything in our home. Hopefully we’ll have a family or game room one day to put it back up.

Sooo…. there are a few of the things I use to do before my son came along. I use to have a lot of free time. Wouldn’t change a thing. Hes getting to the age now though where I can get back into painting. He’s more apt to play with his toys without needing constant attention so maybe I’ll try to paint more often.

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DIY American Flag Shorts

I recently got a deal on red white and blue Sperry style loafers. They cost me $8 which is still a little more than I like to spend on shoes. So I now have the obligation to make sure I have as many things to wear with them as possible. Got to get that $8 out of them… yes… I… am….that…CHEAP! So I decided to repeat a DIY I tried for the 4th of July. I got so many compliments on my shorts! So I  made a second pair, (technically a third, my first pair ended up being 2 sizes to small.) My pride was tarnished but I soldiered on with a larger pair.

Let me start by saying, American flag shorts have made a come back therefore they are expensive! I don’t like to spend more than $5 on shorts or $10 on jeans, so buying a pair was out of the question.

I pulled out a pair of shorts from the closet. Chances are, since the brand in the tutorial are American Eagle, that my friend gave them to me after she got knocked up. Love when friends get fat or skinny because I’m right in the middle; I get new clothes!!! Now to the how to…


I’m saying $5.00 but technically I already had all the supplies. FREEEEE!!!! I’m estimating $5 for the following supplies

Supplies: Red and White acrylic paint, paint brushes, pair of old shorts, (optional: chalk or white paint pen)


Step 1: Lay shorts flat. Starting at center seam paint a red line straight across to side seam. If you are not confident in your straight line skills you can mark it off with tape. As your paint dries it will darken. I personally think it looks more rugged, but if you’re looking for a bright pop of red, I would recommend going over each line again after they dry.


Step 2: Fill the spaces in between with white paint. Pocket lining and waist band are completely optional. The orientation of your stripes are also completely optional.


Step 3: To put on the stars you have a few options. a) freehand them on with paint and brush. b) using chalk or paint pen, draw on stars then fill in with paint. c) purchase a star stamp from hobby store. I personally found it easy to just draw a five point star using a paint pen (it goes on very faint) When they where placed where I wanted, I painted them in using white paint.


Step 4: Repeat on the back. Getting into the crotch area will be tricky. You will have to hold you hand in the crotch and maneuver you lines around. Another style for the back I have seen is just painting the pockets stars and stripes. Up to you!

How to Care for your Shorts

I made another pair that where washed using regular washing powders and dried in my dryer several times with the rest of the laundry. That pair did fade but colors did not run.  They have that really rugged look, like the ones pictured in the collage for $70.  If you want to keep them as bright as possible you can try sealing with an acrylic sealer though it may cause extra stiffness. For washing, turn inside out. Wash on light cycle using a Tbsp of  baking soda. Baking soda will clean the shorts from regular wear without harsh chemicals that are in usual detergents. Lie flat to dry. For an in between bright and rugged look try washing like you would anything else then using the baking soda method.

Hope you give it a try and enjoy your new patriotic shorts!

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Make Your Own One of a Kind Shoes!

I spend the majority of my free time doing this right here. Custom shoes. They make the best gifts when you don’t know what else to buy. Who doesn’t want a one of a kind completely customized pair of shoes?!

(UPDATE) I do sell these. For more information visit my facebook page

No tutorial, just a few of the shoes I’ve done over the last year. Very therapeutic but be warned, they are VERY VERY VERY time consuming! Partly the reason I don’t even have my own pair. Crazy huh?

So I present to you, Shoes by MoonBlossom!

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Monster High

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School Mascots (Patriots and Gators)


Lala Loopsy (For my niece)


Mickey Mouse Clubhouse!!! “Oh Toodles”


For my brother, the Game of Thrones fan.


…and for his wife, the fan


Miami Heat!


These were pretty interesting. This girl wanted to dance the night away at her winter formal without the uncomfortable heels. The shoes matched her amazing bright dress perfectly. She was able to be fashionable and comfortable all at once!


These were from when I was just playing with the idea of redesigning cheap shoes. My mom found a similar pair online so we decided to give it a go.


Now these are my most used and favorite pair. I would like to add I glittered these shoes before ever seeing the tutorial on pinterest. Just wanted to bask in what I though was originality for a minute. Then of course somebody like-minded did the same and created a well spread pin tutorial. These Shoes have gotten me the most compliments. (they were solid blue/green shoes with no embellishment before)


They were such a smash at our annual Christmas excursion that our precious patron Katie had to give them a try. I ended up painting this sweet lady a BRIGHT pair of keds in rainbow colors and glitter. She is 80 and totally rocked them!


Rocking the Goldies pre-excursion. I worked as a bartender so this time every year one of our favorite patrons would treat us to the bar and take us gambling. Miss that woman like crazy!

Sorry no tutorial but it’s pretty simple. Buy plain cheap shoes, pick a design, paint it on.

Note: I paint the majority of shoes using acrylic then sealing with an  aerosol acrylic sealer. Also use paint pens occasionally but brushes offer  much more control and precision.

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All day Red Lips for $4

I LOVE 40’s inspired makeup. I like to pretend I’m a pinup girl, when I’m not pretending to be a Disney princess… Some of us never grow up. Retro makeup and hair is my go-to look when I don’t want to spend forever in the mirror. It’s really quick and really easy! Now, I never realized how hard it was to photograph your lip until to day so I’ll have to use mostly photos from the past week of red lips.


Supplies: Your usual gloss, Ruby Red lipstick, and a red sharpie marker. (You read that right permanent marker)




I used Sally Hansen Lip Inflation $2!!! Love the stuff. My lipstick is
Wet n Wild in Velvet Red 910D $1. Bought a 4 pack of sharpies at the
dollar store for $1. That’s $4 for all day stay!


I invested in a lip stain stick a couple years back and loved it but realized it was nothing ore than a marker. Only the lip stain markers fade and smear much like I would expect a crayola child’s marker to on my lips. Plus it cost me $9!!!


STEP 1: Exfoliate lips using your toothbrush. This will knock off the dead skin and stimulate them to make them naturally plumper. If you have dry cracked lips like me try putting on a THICK coat of Blistex or Carmex and let set a couple minutes then wipe off. You want your lips dry but uncracked to apply the red.


Step2: Line your lips with the marker. It is very important that you stay INSIDE your natural lip line. If you have ever drawn on your skin with a marker you will know they tend to bleed out. As long as you keep it within your natural lip line it will not bleed and will keep a straight clear line


Step3: Fill in your entire lip with marker. It will feel sticky at first but will dry


(((TIP: If you are hitting the beach of some sort of outdoor activity you can apply gloss and go after this step. You can even add chap stick thru out the day without losing color. The red marker is water proof and smudge proof. No touch ups needed.)))


Step 4: Apply red lipstick and blot like normal.


Step 5: Glam up your gloss! YOUR DONE!




I’m telling you it really sticks. After a few hours of no touch ups your lips will be still be a succulent red and completely kissable! At first naturally your lip stick will smudge on anything you kiss, eat, or drink. You can go all day without touching up and not worry about getting it on your man. I only did touch ups about midday to get that high gloss BAM in yo face red again.




Here I had been wearing it for about 3 hours without a touch up other than gloss.




This was AFTER eating and just applying gloss




We rocked it right up until bedtime!


The next day, even after washing my face, I have red tinted lips. I can throw on chapstick and go with naturally red looking lips.



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